Day #10 – A Day of Fun

Saturday December 5, 2009 – Day #10
Saint Mary’s Island GA

We awoke to a gray drizzlie day.  Kelly went off to the laundry room with a load of darks and a load of lights – just about all the clothes we own – and I worked on general tasks.  One of these days, I’ll blog about what it takes to keep this trailer clean and tidy.  You’d think that a small space would practically take care of itself, but it’s been the opposite so far.

We drove into the town of Saint Mary’s and visited the “shore-side” visitors’ center for the Cumberland Island National Seashore (http://www.nps.gov/cuis/index.htm).  Even though it was once the summer playground for the Carnegies (who knew?!), I was more interested in birds and maritime forests.  Since we managed to miss the last ferry of the day (that’ll teach us to start the day with laundry), we watched the video, examined the exhibits, and walked along the shore on the land-side.

The town was throwing a holiday party for themselves that morning, down by the docks.  Santa was there with his wife and elves, plus a couple reindeer.  There were all kinds of fun games for the kids to play.  Elves were painting any tiny face that would sit for a couple minutes.  There was live music and free cookies.  Even the homeless folks seemed to be welcome.

Next, we drove off in search of Ft. Frederica National Monument (http://www.nps.gov/fofr/index.htm) on Saint Simons Island.  This is mainly an archeological site, but we had lots of fun trying to find it.

Our next stop was the Hofwyl-Broadfield Plantation Historic Site (http://georgiaparks.org/info/hofwyl/), where we hoped to learn how rice was grown in the 19th century.  As is our pattern, we arrived a couple minutes before the stated closing time.  Since we’d driven all afternoon and really wanted to learn about rice, we decided to be bold.  It wasn’t necessary.  They were getting ready for an evening Christmas program and we were just in time!  They turned on the movies for us so we could learn about rice production before the Civil War.

In the 1700s, the plantation was built.  Slaves from western Africa were used because they had grown rice in Africa and because they were genetically immune to Yellow Fever.  Swamps were drained and fields were built.  Rice was grown through the end of the slavery period in this area.  After emancipation, it was no longer economically possible for the rice plantations to survive.  Growing rice required more people and harder labor than other types of farming.  We found it interesting that, until the link between mosquitoes and Yellow Fever was made, the white families left the plantations in the summer months.  I’ve wondered whether this independence from the slave masters helped build and sustain the Gullah culture.

There were quite a lot of holiday festivities at the plantation that night.  A choir sang in the visitors’ center auditorium.  The parking attendant was in period dress, but spoke modern English.  Hundreds of luminaries lined a path across a large field, leading from the visitors’ center to the main house.  Once at the house, we found docents in period dress, explaining the contents and purpose of each room.

There was lots going on outside the main house as well.  We were treated to wassail and a sneak peak at Santa in the back yard.  In the front yard, we visited a Confederate encampment and watched the Good ‘Ole Boys shoot their muskets and cannon.  The cannon was very loud and scared everybody, including the Boys.  On our way back to the parking lot, the Milky Way was so big and so bright we could hardly pick out constellations.

We stopped for dinner at a BBQ joint on the way home.  Easily the worst BBQ I’d ever had in my life.  They had their TV going in the dining room – a Medium rerun.  Both of us were plastered to that set like flies on bad BBQ.

We arrived home to find our furnace wouldn’t work.  Lows in the 30s were expected.  So, we fired up the electric heater and cuddled under all our blankets.

Day #9 – Broken Tail Light and Clip

Friday December 4, 2009 – Day #9
Saint Helena’s Island SC to Saint Mary’s Island GA

We are starting to get a routine together for getting ourselves on the road. Kelly works on the inside of the trailer, packing and stowing, while Suzie works on getting all the hoses and electrical connections unconnected, cleaned up, and put away. Things this morning were going particularly well so we folded our trailer down and tightly secured the latches that hold it closed. We then connected the trailer to the truck and tested the lights, brakes, and signals. Crap! We discovered that the passenger side tail light wasn’t working. We decided there wasn’t much we could do about it and planned to look for an auto store when we got to our next location so we could buy a new bulb. We left Tuck in the Woods Campground on time and we were feeling pretty good about our start. We were off! Whoo Hoo!

There was a light rain in the morning but nothing too crazy. Arriving at the Georgia border welcome center we were singing “Georgia, Georgia… the whole day through…” and after unplugging the rig, we went in, collected a few maps, and went back to the truck. That’s when we noticed it. One of the latches we so carefully and tightly connected was gone! It was totally blown off the rig. Oh and that light rain. It was gone too. It was now a heavy storm.

Now cursing the weather, we headed on. We managed to find an Auto Zone store and went in to get a bulb, and to see if they had any latch-type thingies. They didn’t. But they gave us directions to a nearby RV store. Feeling like our luck was about to change, we purchased the new light bulb, removed the cover of the tail light, installed it and PRESTO…. Nothing. Twisted and turned the thing and still nothing. Crap. Still feeling slightly hopeful, we went on the RV store, and guess what? First, they knew what a TrailManor was! Second, they had latches AND valves! Oh yeah, Baby! The staff was quite helpful and had the correct type of valve IN STOCK and latches too! We bought two latches and two valves – one each for the immediate need and one each for a spare – you know, just in case.

The rain had eased up and we were feeling much better about things in general. We continued on to our campsite at the Country Oaks Campground in Kingsland, which is located just a few miles from the Georgia/Florida border. We arrived without further incident, and were cheerfully greeted and directed to our campsite. We quickly hopped out of our truck and begin to set up camp with Kelly inside unstowing and unpacking and Suzie outside connecting anything that needs it. Just when things were feeling brighter and sunnier, the skies opened up and showered Suzie with lots of love. She looked like one of those photos you see of a kitten climbing out of the goldfish bowl. She even had the same expression on her face.

Well, as the saying goes, tomorrow gives us fresh new hope.

Day #8 – Paula Deen & New Friends

Thursday, December 3, 2009 – Day #8
St Helena’s Island, SC

Today didn’t go quite as planned, but then, that’s what this trip is all about.
 

We started out by stopping at an old church (Chapel of Ease - http://www.nationalregister.sc.gov/beaufort/S10817707045/index.htm) we’d passed several times going back and forth to the campground.  The church was built in 1740 and was burned by a forest fire in 1886.  The walls were built of "tabby" - a type of concrete that used sea shells instead of gravel in the mix.  The roof had been destroyed long ago – nothing was left but the walls and spaces where things used to be.  You could see the shape of the windows.  There were regularly spaced notches in the walls where pews had been anchored.  You could see where the pulpit had been.  Outside, graves were still visible.   Moss and lichen had grown over most of the tombstones, but we could still read some dates.  It seemed that many children had died in a very short time period.  We found out later that Yellow Fever had ravaged the island during that time.  We thought sadly of all those lives lost and the impact it had had on the families.



When I walk through a graveyard, I wonder what happens when we die.  If some part of us lives on, does something happen when that spark is thought of or remembered?  Do the dead continue to exist as long as they are remembered or thought about?

We drove on to Savannah, intent on eating lunch at Paula Deen’s restaurant, The Lady and Sons.  It was fun, but I gotta tell you, it was a disappointment.  While we could have ordered from a menu, we opted for the buffet.  All the food was at room temperature – not what I expect for fried chicken, greens, macaroni and cheese, and so forth.  Kelly however, continued perfecting the art of small souvenirs.  Today she found a jar opener to replace our old one and some tiny silicone finger mitts to use when pulling hot bowls out of the microwave.  Both are Paula-approved and trailer-friendly.

We walked through the Cotton District, down by the river.  We had a horrible experience with a caricature artist.  I’d rather not dwell on it other than to say we don’t look anything like what he drew.  He had to put our names on the sketch so that we could even identify ourselves.  You won’t be seeing that in any of our photo albums!

By the time we finished our walk, it was late afternoon.  I had wanted to hike around Tybee Island for a full day, so you can imagine how happy I was to have just a couple hours.  But, off we went!

First stop on the island was Fort Pulaski National Monument (http://www.nps.gov/fopu/index.htm).  This was one of the most beautiful forts I’d ever seen.  Robert E. Lee worked on the design and building of this fort, mostly the drainage system.  Since it sits right on the ocean, built on sand, and is huge, there were quite a few architectural issues.  One of the exhibits in the visitors’ center showed a cut-away model of the fort.  The drainage system was amazing.  Did you know that Lee graduated from West Point and was a member of the US Army Corp of Engineers? 

Construction started in 1829 with the pilings – 75 feet in length – to support the proposed 25 million-brick structure.  The fort was expected to be one of 300 built to protect our eastern coast from invaders.  Construction of these forts was slow, so only 30 were built by the time the Civil War began.  The Union’s weapon technology had improved to the point that the fort could not withstand the cannon bombardment and no more forts were built.

We walked to the fort, crossed the moat (yes, alligators live in the moat), and wandered around in tunnels that were carved underneath, then entered the main structure.  We climbed up lots of steps to walk along the top, then climbed down a narrow circular staircase to get back down.  There were many of these circular staircases – I felt like I was in a 3-D version of Chutes and Ladders.

There was a plaque outside the fort that said, "On April 13, 1862, following the Union capture of Ft. Pulaski during the Civil War, Maj. Gen. David Hunter issued General Orders No. 7 freeing those enslaved at the fort and on Cockspur Island.  Hunter, an abolitionist advocating the enlistment of black soldiers in the Union Army,  ordered the freedmen subject to military service.  Not yet committed to a comprehensive plan of emancipation, President Abraham Lincoln overturned the orders.  However, Hunter's orders were a precursor to Lincoln's own Emancipation Proclamation, formally issued January 1, 1863, and to the establishment of the Bureau of Colored Troops on May 22, 1863.  Local African-American units included the 103rd Regiment USCT, which served at Ft. Pulaski 1865-1866."

Near dusk, they kicked us out of the fort, so we headed on to the main portion of the island.  I needn’t have been peeved at missing wildlife – Tybee Island is all about tourists.  It’s Little Tybee Island that is wild and natural.  In our search for a sunset, we got hopelessly lost.  We picked a road and followed it, trusting logic that we’d find the ocean. We lucked out – the road we chose ended at the beach.  Would you believe it – we had to pay for parking!  No sooner had we pulled in, than another vehicle with Pennsylvania plates, and sporting two high-end touring kayaks, parked next to us.  Steve, a kayak buddy of Linda’s, and his girlfriend, hopped out to meet us.  We laughed about coincidences and had supper together at the local crab shack.  They were on their second day of a week of coastal and surf kayaking around the two islands.  They had driven down through the gale and were glad to see better weather.  Linda had told us the two would be in the area, and told the two of them that we would be there, too, but none of us ever imagined we’d meet.

The drive back home was a long one, but we had a beautiful moon to keep us company.

Day #7 - NOAA Warnings

Wednesday, December 2, 2009 – Day #7

St Helena’s Island, SC

This morning, NOAA warned us a gale was heading our way and that tornadoes might come with it.  Like the true Pittsburghers we are, we headed to the grocery store for bread and milk.  The search for staples, in the face of impending doom, may be hardwired into all of us because the supermarket was very busy.

Kelly decided we needed garlic.  In the garlic section, she met Miss Mazyck who gave her the following recipe for a sore throat remedy:

•    Smashed up garlic

•    Honey

•    Black strap molasses

When I asked Miss Mazyck about lemon, she though it wouldn’t hurt.  And yes, folks, you eat it.  You do not rub it on your throat – you eat it.  Think about it awhile or even mix up a batch and I bet your sore throat will clear right up.  Actually, it makes sense: both garlic and honey have antibiotic properties.  Plus, honey is soothing on the throat.  I’m not sure about the molasses.

I couldn’t decide what to do about this weather.  I thought we should, at the very least, collapse the trailer so that it might better withstand high winds.  There wasn’t much point in trying to out-run the storm because there really wasn’t anywhere safer we could get to before the storm arrived.  We decided to sit tight.

I put together an emergency bag.  It contained some extra clothes, the polartec sleeping bags, water, food, flashlights, the first aid kit, and a bottle of wine.  Thanks to Nina and Carolyn for helping us pick the appropriate wine for surviving a tornado.  Our basic plan was to keep NOAA on alert status and run for the concrete bath house if necessary.

The whole town was in an uproar over the weather forecast.  The school closed early and many businesses shut down.  Luckily, the Gullah Grub restaurant stayed open through lunch.  We feasted (think last meal before dying or being swept away to Oz) on BBQ chicken, collard greens, corn bread, squash casserole, red rice, lima beans, and sweet potato pie.  What a way to go!

It rained hard that night.  Kelly wanted to go to bed, but I made her stay up and play cards with me.  By midnight, the rain eased.  The wind never howled or roared like a freight train.  No trees fell.  We were not swept off to Oz.

In the morning, I quietly unpacked our emergency bag and cooked us some breakfast.  Kelly managed to not laugh at me.  I let Carolyn and Nina know that we survived the night – they didn’t laugh either.

Day #6 - Our First Week Ends Well

Tuesday, December 1, 2009 – Day #6

Lexington SC to St Helena’s Island, SC

high 65; cloudy, then rain

Our patches held up to morning ablutions and breakfast dishes! We’re still holding our breath, but it was a good start.

Kelly went to Wal-Mart to return a large unneeded storage box, drop some stuff off at Goodwill, and put gas in the truck. Suzie did laundry and started the packing.

Our 125-mile trip to Tuck in the Woods Campground on St Helena’s Island was an easy one. Kelly was quite stressed about our RV battery. It was completely dead, so we were running the fridge on either propane or the truck battery. Using the truck battery puts a strain on the alternator, but we weren’t sure how bad it would be. Every time Kelly walked past the trailer, she was sure she could smell burning electrical. Suzie smelled nothing. Kelly was sure the trailer would burn to the ground. Suzie reminded her that we had a Plan B and that she couldn’t get out of the trip that easily.

St Helena’s island is reached via a narrow two-lane drawbridge. While it was very pretty, it caused us to both grip various parts of the truck quite tightly and hold our breath. We arrived without incident and set up without any problems.

A side story – Kelly has been working to learn how to roll her kayak. One of the first steps in this process is to hang upside down in the water, without falling out of the kayak, for at least ten seconds before beginning the rolling steps. Kelly tends to count to ten in about two seconds. I teased her that, given how well she’d been holding her breath while towing through mountain passes, across narrow bridges, and so forth, she should have no more problems with that 10 count. At which point she suggested that I count the number of fingers she was holding in the air.

Back to our day – Kelly checked our repairs after dinner and announced that both were continuing to hold. Yippee!

The Tuck in the Woods campground was quiet with large spots for RVs and lots of trees.  Everything was clean and tidy.  There was a pond with a boardwalk.  Even though there were signs warning of alligators, we saw none.

We got the TV working on Kelly’s laptop and were able to watch the end of President Obama’s speech and a bit of Biggest Loser. When the rain started, it was so loud on the roof of the trailer that we couldn’t hear the TV.

This first week is wrapping up to be a good one. We were able to solve the problems we encountered and we developed more self confidence. We also learned some new skills. We can hitch the trailer to the truck pretty quickly. In most conditions, Kelly can tow the trailer easily. Suzie learned how to hook up and clean out the sewage system. We still need to learn about electricity. Our backing-up-the-trailer-into-a-spot skills need some work. And, one of these days, Suzie is going to tow it!

Day #5 - Holding Tank Repair

Monday, November 30, 2009 – Day #5

Lexington SC

high 65; sunny, then rain

Today we decided on a solution to our problems. All we had to do was push some mesh through the hole in the tank, then pull it back towards us so that it neatly covered the hole from the inside. Then we’d put a bit of goo or epoxy or something on the outside to hold the mesh in place. Easy to picture; hard to do. The hole was the size of a thumbnail. As for the leaky valve, well we were sure we could find a replacement. If not, Suzie wanted to just push lots of the same goo or epoxy or whatever around the valve. What’s good for one plumbing problem would surely be good for another – right?

First stop Camping World, which is a super store and service center for all things RV. No valves to fit and no materials for a repair. They advised that we should replace the holding tank, which would take a few weeks. Clearly these folks were not used to dealing with creative women on a tight budget traveling in a 13-year old trailer. We did however, find some dandy junk that we could not live without. Onward!

Second stop lunch. After all that shopping and repair angst, we needed to refuel. Oatmeal and bananas get these girls only so far.

After lunch, the stops blur a bit. There was a pool supply place. At a hobby store, we found plastic mesh that we thought would work. A study of all their glue products led us to the conclusion that we’d need a glue that would work on wet things. We settled on a product that we’d used earlier…even though it wasn’t rated for plastic or wet areas. We managed to leave the hobby shop with just the mesh even though Suzie found some knitting yarn that she thought would make cheerful chemo caps.

At the auto parts store, we found a repair kit that was pretty much what we’d already cobbled together, but with better components. The mesh was fiberglass and the glue was designed to work on wet plastic. The only difference – they recommended patching from the outside. Sounded great to us. We never did find replacement valves for the leaky water drain hose. Everyone agreed that a marine store would be the most likely source for that.

The repair went without a hitch. First, we formed a pancake-shaped patch with the epoxy – about ¼ inch thick – and pressed it over the hole. Second, we pushed a piece of mesh into the pancake. After it set for 15 minutes, we pressed another thinner, but larger, pancake over it all, thus making a mesh sandwich. We pushed the leftover epoxy around the leaky valve. Then we dashed to clean up before the thunderstorms arrived. We agreed to not test our work until morning. Because of the rain, we wanted to give our repairs extra time to set.

After dinner, we decided to connect a laptop to the cable TV provided by the campground. We both have adapters in our computers that allow us to plug in a TV cable. As a separate solution, we also have a digital antenna that can pull a TV signal in to a computer. We had tested both of these items in Pittsburgh and they worked just fine. We expected to have TV when we wanted it without having the extra baggage of an actual television.

We fussed for a couple hours with our cable adapter and then went to bed, defeated. While we had both agreed to cut back on TV, neither of us ever agreed to cut it out completely. It never occurred to us that we couldn’t have TV when we wanted it. Given our level of crankiness over this failure, it appears we’re more addicted than we thought. Suzie thinks it’s better for us if we can’t get the blasted thing to work. Kelly has already found a small flat-screen TV with a DVD player that she plans to purchase.

Day #4 - We Have Leaks

Sunday, November 29, 2009 – Day #4

Lexington SC

high 73; sunny

Suzie woke up cranky, which should have been a portent of things to come. She blamed her mood on a sore throat and runny nose – little did she know.

Our gray water holding tank – holds dirty water from the kitchen and bathroom sinks and the shower – had a hole in it. The problem wasn’t apparent until we had about ten gallons in the tank. Suzie thought the hole was about ¼ inch in diameter; Kelly thought it was the size of her thumb. Either way, yuk. In addition, one of our fresh water drain valves had sprung a leak and was dripping like crazy under the trailer. While these two leaks helped explain why the trailer seemed to have gone off level, we sure weren’t happy with the reason.

Instead of the romantic RV notion of hiking, bird watching, and playing cards, we faced the reality of trying to find solutions on a Sunday in a state with strong Blue Laws.

We succeeded in reorganizing our stuff and finding better ways to store it. We also thought through some solutions to the leak problems and some work-arounds to make life a bit easier in the water-less interim.

We also returned the heater and bought a different brand. We found boxes at Staples that fit perfectly in the cupboards under the bed and the storage area in the back of the trailer. They are called “Really Useful Box” and they really are!